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May 26th,
2008 We are working
our way back north in the DITCH.
The Intracoastal Waterway through South Carolina is wonderful. Unlike
portions of the waterway in North Florida and Georgia, in the Carolinas it is
wide and deep. Going into Fernandina, Florida last week we had a soft
grounding in the canal just a fourth of a mile from the anchorage. We were
able to back off and find a very narrow path through. We met up with
Madcap and Sapphire in Fernandina and went out for guess what, dinner.

Forgot about our stay in Daytona
Beach. I'm doing this in the morning and the coffee hasn't kicked in yet.
We met up with friends Tom and Connie and Wayne and Eloise. Guess what
Wayne and Nancy are talking about.
Don't they look serious. I don't see a sign above them that says FAA, but
they thought they were in the office.
Leaving Fernandina, FL we passed
Fort Clinch that protected the entrance to St. Mary's River.
After that Sapphire and Solitaire set out on a overnight voyage to Charleston
South Carolina. It was the best overnight we have ever had. It got a
little rough for about 1 hour but the rest was great. We stayed at the
Maritime Center in Charleston and had a great time as it was the start of the
Spoleto Festival (17 days of entertainment with everything having to do with the
arts). The opening ceremony was held at the Center and we had front row
seats. We ended up coordinating the sea arrival of the performers from
Italy. The city manager and I did all the grunt work (line handling,
helping people off the boats, etc.) and I used our handheld marine radio to make
sure the boats arrived on music cue (bagpiper) and the audience walked down the
docks to greet the arrival of the boats. One of our fellow cruisers also
took out his sail boat and lit up his sails, serving as a backdrop for the
arrival. Wonderful evening display.
A replica of the Amistad sail
boat was also docked next to us. It has sailed from North America to
Europe to Africa and back with a young volunteer crew. The Amistad was a
cargo vessel that carried some slaves who rebelled and killed the cook and the
Captain. The U.S. Supreme Court found them innocent (self defense) and
determined that they were free blacks. All were released and they caught
the first ship back to Africa. One young girl later came back to the
US for college. This is one of the story tellers and crew aboard the
vessel.
Nancy was enthralled with the history.
The ship was in very good condition compared to some of the 2 and 3 masted
vessels that we had seen.
We left Sapphire in Charleston and continued up the waterway. We are now in Georgetown, South Carolina. Georgetown is the third oldest town in South Carolina and was the first settlement in North America (a failed Spanish settlement). We will visit it today and then continue north.
CRUISERS: Throw away your cruising guides on Georgetown. We almost left because of the inner harbor. There is no place to anchor as the guides say. The harbor is filled with derelict boats on private mooring balls. A couple of boats did anchor in the barge basin for the steel mill but I don't know how they got their anchors' to stick. We tried twice with a CQR (a great mud anchor) and all it did was slide through the oil filled goo on the bottom. The marina we went to for refueling was the Harbor Walk Marina. It had old docks and a walkway that was connected to land by 2 planks and a steel beam turned sideways. There were no rest rooms and no place to throw away paper towels that we had used during refueling (the attendant on duty said to just throw them on the ground and he would take care of them). We left never to return. But around the corner is a newer marina. The Georgetown Landing Marina. Cheaper that the Harbor walk and all the facilities that you would expect. Showers, free Wi-Fi, ships store and a 20 minute walk to the historic district.
May 12th,
2008 We are back in
Florida. Before we left the Bahamas, we stopped at two more Cays.
The first was Manjack Cay. It has about 3 homes on it with 2 more being
built. The first residents of the Cay were cruisers like us who decided to
buy some land and build (they said that their boat was collecting too many
things and they needed a larger place). So 16 years ago they moved ashore.
They have a nice little cove and have made it all available to cruisers.
They built a Tiki bar out from the beach in the water, that cruisers could tie
their dinghies to and socialize. They have also put in a WiFi that reaches
out into the harbor so the cruisers can get internet from their anchorage.
They have made a trail that goes to the other side of the Cay - the ocean-side.
Now a trail to the ocean is pretty common but this one was so well-kept. They
had also placed decorative touches - such as little shells along the way.
The shells were in trees, stumps, along the path and even hanging from branches
like wind chimes. When we got to the ocean side of the Cay we saw garbage
bags filled and waiting to be picked up. They had cleaned the beach that
doesn't even belong to them. Well maybe they did own it. The
last day there we did a tour of the mangroves. What a treat.
We slowly cruised up into the mangroves in our dinghy and coasted back out on
the outgoing tide. Going up, we were treated to the sight of a giant
turtle swimming next to us.
We had noticed Conch and Nancy decided to get a few.
This one was too small and was released back into the water. Some were
just the right size.
Nancy couldn't wait to make Conch Fritters, Conch Salad, Conch Chowder and
Cracked Conch. Well in order to do that they have to be cleaned.
She started out trying to use a cutting board but found out later that it was
easier to do it like the natives, in the water.

We had been traveling with
friends Mike and Kathy
from Sapphire (who showed Nancy how to clean a Conch) and Jim and Beth
from Madcap. All of them are just wonderful and caring folks to travel
with. That afternoon Jim and Beth left for another Cay to meet up with
some folks and the next day Sapphire and Solitaire went on to Allen-Pensacola.
This is a deserted Cay that once had a U.S. missile tracking station on it.
Not much left of the tracking station but a old parking lot and a blown down
metal building. It also has a "signing tree". We couldn't believe
it. Not only one tree but the beach was filled with trees with boat names
written on everything.
Nancy found another Poison Wood tree.
The next morning, Sapphire and Solitaire said our goodbyes to Madcap and sailed
west into the setting sun.
The crossing back into the U.S. took us about 28 hours. It started out
smooth but a little after sunset the wind changed to the south and later west
and increased in velocity. It ended up being what I called our 4th
roughest open water passage. We got into Ft. Pierce about 10:00 am and
motored up the Intracoastal waterway to Vero Beach. We got a mooring ball
at the city marina ( $11.83/day ). The city has free bus service that
picked us up today and we went shopping. We got Nancy a new computer since
hers died about two days ago and the Geek Squad is busy retrieving data from her
old one. Tomorrow, hopefully she will be up and running again.
We will leave here in a couple of days and start our slow journey north back to Deale, Maryland.
May 3rd,
2008 We had a
great time in Marsh Harbor. We decided to go into a marina so we could
have easy access to shore. The marina we chose was not a public marina and
had locked gates. The staff was the best we had encountered and the marina
was one of the best we had stayed at.
The charge was $1.25 per foot and $10.00 per day for unlimited water. This
gave us a chance to really wash the boat after months at sea and get all of our
big laundry done (bed spreads and beach towels). The local boaters group
is really promoting boating and had Sunfish class races the weekend we were
there.
One of the evenings we joined a group of friends and went out for dinner.
Lets see that's Beth, far left, then Jim on Madcap, closest
are Steve and Carol from Restless, furthest, Jim and Nancy from
Solitaire, and far right are Mike and Kathy from Sapphire.
I over did it that evening.
We wanted to go to
the other side of the harbor and see the marina that friends Hugh and Myona
(from Lake Texoma) on Kachina, lived for a few years. On our
walking trip to the other side of the harbor, we couldn't believe the sign we
ran across.
It confirmed to me that we were too far north. We got to the marina
and said "Hi" to the folks that were there who remembered Kachina. As
we walked the
docks, we ran into some other friends whom we had met along the way in the Bahamas.
We left Marsh Harbor
for Great Guana Cay. We were met the next day by Madcap and the four of us did
a little beach walking and ended up at "Nippers" a local seaside pub.
Since we had approached from the beach, as we left, we saw the signs that lead
the way from town.
Nancy was trying to figure out what to do. I had already figured it out.
We also ran across a very poisonous tree along the way. It is 10 times
more powerful than Poison Ivy and needs to be avoided. Like Poison Ivy
some people are very vulnerable and some are not. We had already
encountered the tree in the Land and Sea Park and accidently, Nancy found out
that it didn't bother her (she moved a branch to read the sign that said
Poisonous ). So one more time she had to test her immune system.
Didn't do a thing to her.
We then went to
Baker's Bay and found an Island off the bay that was filled with shells.
We hated to walk because we could be stepping on something great. The next
morning Madcap and Sapphire joined us in the bay and
Solitaire pulled anchor and left for Green
Turtle Cay. To get to the Cay we had to make a short trip back out into
the Atlantic. It is called the Whale Cut and is famous for being very
rough. We decided that it was time to try the cut because the forecast was
better that day and not that good for the next 2 days with rising sea swells.
We made it through with some rolling and not much else. The cats didn't
get sick and that is a sign of a OK passage. We pulled into
Green Turtle Cay and Nancy dove the anchor,
I had held off putting the anchor down because the bay is filled with large gold
and red Starfish. I had to make sure that I didn't drop the anchor on one.
The reason we were
here is because we heard that there was going to be a Heritage Festival over the
weekend.
Thanks to Sam Baker (Sam's wife
Norma was my boss at West Marine) who had been forwarding Nancy's newsletter to
his sister Laurie. Laurie emailed us and told us about the celebration and that
she would be there.
We went ashore and
toured town. Well kept settlement. The heritage of the Cay comes
from England and the United States. The settlement flies the flags of many
countries and one flag that is not a country.
This flag is from the Conch Republic. Green Turtle Cay and Key West are
sister Islands. Families from here moved there ( including disassembling
their homes and rebuilding them in Key West) when the sponges were killed out by
disease. We also have the Conch Republic flag onboard and fly it on
special occasions.
A very well kept
Memorial Garden gives tribute to the early settlers.
I believe that the walks in the garden are laid out and colored to pay tribute
to the British Flag.
We were met by
Madcap and Sapphire the day after we got here and one
afternoon we dinghied over to "Pineapples" a local pub that has WiFi.
The
next day the festivities began.
We met Laurie at the Heritage tent and said our hello's.
She was a wealth of information about the Baker family ties to the Island.
Wonderful stories.
Next
to arrive was Queen Victoria and her troupe.
They are actually from Florida. We had toured the museum with some of them
the day before.
During an afternoon
break we continued our tour of the Cay along with MadCap and
Sapphire. This is the Customs Office on the main street.
Pretty flower (I think that line was used in a movie).
Local billboard.
I still haven't seen the place. We did stop in at the "Blue
Bee Bar" and had the world famous Goombay Smash.
Two of those is about all that a person could take.
We got back to the
festivities in time to watch the Police Marching Band come in to put on a
concert.
The next to arrive was the Prime Minister of the Bahamas. We had been
waiting for him to arrive and kept looking for a group of official looking cars.
Well, he just drove himself in on a golf cart and parked beside us. We
looked over to the golf cart and said "the Prime Minister????"
Nancy wanted to get a picture with him so here it is.
I shook his hand and spoke to him but I don't have a picture of the two of us
together (I have the camera). Later Nancy met him.
He is a very gracious person and it appeared that he is well-liked by the towns
people.
We watched a May Pole
dance and it was something I have never seen before. Weaving and unweaving
the ribbons on the pole, all done with music.
The evening brought rake n' scrape music and fire dancing. We left before
the fire dance but could watch it from our boat.
We will be moving west along the Island chain and will be getting into uninhabited areas. This will probably be our last web update until we get back to the states. We will still be able to get email through our SSB.
So it goes.