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August 29th,
2007 We headed out
of Gloucester, Mass. bound for Provincetown on the very tip of Cape Cod.
The tip is about 25 miles out in the Atlantic Ocean. When we departed
Gloucester, we immediately noticed a stowaway.
The little bird was hitching a ride with us. We motored all the way
across. The ocean was the calmest we have seen on this trip.
Tippy was in the cockpit watching the reflection of the clouds go by below us.
We saw about a dozen Humpback whales as we crossed. I had to deviate
course as one of them got too close to us. We could have stopped and taken
some pictures but the whales are protected in these waters and we should not
change speed or course since that would bother them. They know we are
there and come by to take a look and we should not startle them. The law is that
we should stay 500 yards from whales if possible. They can come up to us
but we cannot get close to them. They control the encounter. It's
important to remember that whales are highly intelligent mammals - not so
different from us. A foreign vessel had to deviate course because of the whales
and then report it to the Coast Guard as his clearance into the U.S. waters did
not allow a deviation from the route he was told to take.
Provincetown is a different community. Like Key West, it is open and tolerant. This gives such a great atmosphere to the city. It is only 2 blocks wide and 3 miles long. Artists abound here and the galleries are wonderful. Truly gifted artisans. Shopping is quite an experience as it includes everything from the local hardware store to several adult stores and the artists in-between.
The centerpiece for
the town is the monument to the Pilgrims.
The monument is 252 ft. 7.5 inches tall and rises 350 feet above sea level.
It is the tallest all-granite structure in the United States. Constructed
in 1907-1910 it has 116 steps and 60 ramps.
Most people read the same history book that I did that said that the Pilgrims landed at Plymouth Rock. Well, they actually landed here about Nov. 11th, 1620 and after 3 expeditions on land and sea, they sailed to Plymouth. Provincetown claims that the Pilgrims chose this area first. Truth is the captain wanted to get rid of them and go back to England. Abundant fresh water and good farm land could not be found here and they continued on.
We climbed the steps
of the monument
and saw the spectacular view from the top. The arm and fist of Cape Cod
can be seen from the top.
Our boat is the fourth boat to the right of the sea wall.
Tomorrow, weather permitting, we'll head back through the Cape Cod Canal to warmer water. The water is cold up here. Our refrigerator and freezer have never worked so well.
August 27th, 2007 What a day of sailing. Nine hours and never having to tack. Just pull on the sheets every now and then. Saw two more whales today. Can't believe people pay to go out on the whale watching boats. They are thick around here. Normally the whale sightings are so rare that there is a web site to report them. On this trip we have seen them quite often.
Things that work... Fly swatter in the cockpit. We had heard that at the Maine Black Fly Growers Assn. meeting that ovations occurred when it was announced that this year was the most productive. The other thing is that we passed 3 fishing boats trawling and saw that the sea gulls followed (and I think the flies as well). We collected some that stayed with us the next 5 hours. (Until Jim picked them off one by one.) Do not leave home without a good old fashioned fly swatter. I started a carcass area in the cockpit that Nancy did not like. It just got too deep for her. The grower assn. also mentioned that they had started a franchise on Long Island.
We are in Gloucester, Mass. and headed to "P" town (Provincetown on the tip of Cape Cod). Gloucester is where the fishing boat "Andrea Gale" came from that was lost in "The Perfect Storm". There is a monument to the crew and other fishermen lost at sea in the northwest harbor at Gloucester.
Cruising Guide
problem (again)..... The guide says to anchor behind the sea wall
immediately after entering the harbor. Once again the area is filled with
mooring balls. Knowing that the guides lie, we had already reserved a
mooring ball behind the sea wall. We are at the Eastern Point Yacht Club.
Thirty-Five dollars for the ball. The cruising guide says that the yacht
club is behind the Coast Guard Station. If you look at the chart of the
harbor, you will see the letters "CG" in the inner basin. There is a
station there but there is also one at the harbor entrance that is not notated
"CG". What the guide should have said is that the "yacht club is located
behind the sea wall next to the light house/Coast Guard station".
The anchorage area is to the north of the mooring fields of the Yacht Club.
The other thing we are finding out about mooring fields is that the harbor
master assumes you have some knowledge of the area (dumb me). Some clubs
will send a launch out to direct you to the mooring, others will give directions
like today, "come into the harbor, immediately to your right is a mooring
field and you are on orange ball number 7". Well he was partly right.
The mooring field was to our right, (one wrong, the balls are pink), it
was just that we were the second from the last mooring ball on the far left of
the field. Took a little searching to find the ball.
(Aviation buffs, When the former CEO of American Airlines (Bob) retired,
he bought a sailboat and sailed it across the Atlantic to the U.S., that
is the sailboat in this picture, the vessel is named "ARWAY")
We were also told that once we got to the ball a launch would come out to greet us (that means to collect the mooring fee). We had to call the launch to come to us (we waited over an hour before calling the Yacht Club office and asking them to come out).
We received
notification that a lawsuit had been filled on behalf of the cats.
Concerned persons and the SPCA did not like how they were being treated (and
getting sick). So now, until we reach land again, all cats will don their
life jackets.
Tippy says
thanks a lot.
August 26th,
2007 On our way
back south we decided to do some whale watching. So we watched and watched
and watched, finally we saw one. Just laying around and flapping its tail
at us. Nancy thinks that we were mooned by a whale. So we watched
and watched and watched some more. Finally we spotted another one coming
across our bow, starboard to port. I turned the boat a little and then it
was swimming along side of us. What a thrill. It was about as long
as our boat. Could have been more as we never did see its eyes.
The day started out a little on the rough side. Forecast was for 4 to 6
foot seas and we ended up with 8 to 12 foot seas with 18 knot winds on our bow.
It was a long 5 hours before things got a little better for the last 3 hours.
That's when we saw the whales.
A little tribute to our cat Tippy, she didn't get sea sick. Congratulations Tippy.
We left Ebencook
Harbor and plotted a course direct to Biddeford, Maine. It is a lovely
little place south of Portland. We are moored adjacent to Biddeford Pool
which is the worlds largest tidal pool. We thought that we would have to
anchor in the outer harbor here but last minute phone calls finally found us the
last mooring ball available inside.
We look a little out of place being the only sailboat. The yacht club is
very friendly and helpful. Great place for a cruiser. Their front
balcony looks over the narrow channel that we had to come through.

We met Barbara and
Pete along with their old time friend Eva, from Washington State. They
picked us up and we went to dinner at the best dive in Maine, Mulligan's.
Nothing on the menu over $5.00. What a great time.
As we were finishing eating another friend, Shirley, showed up and we all went
to Pete's and Barbara's house for some home made blueberry crisp and ice cream.
This couldn't get any better. Thanks kids for a wonderful time.
August 23rd,
2007 This is the
end of the trail. After our stay here we will be headed back to the
Chesapeake. Where is here you ask?? We are in Ebencook Harbor on Southport
Island that borders Sheepscot Bay, right next to Booth Bay, Maine. This
is the back door to Booth Bay which is only 1.3 miles east through a little
channel. We had thought about getting a ball in Booth Bay but the local
yacht club said that none were available because of a visiting yacht club summer
cruise. We could have anchored but we decided that we were not looking
forward to another busy harbor. So we picked this one.
The cruising guide said that we could anchor just around the corner from the
entrance and guess what..... mooring balls. A quick radio call to the
harbor master (a young woman named Blaze) and we had a ball. This is
probably the best summer day in Maine. Temperature was about 76 degrees,
humidity of 40%, very calm wind and high cirrus clouds overhead. I sat in
the cockpit and heard sounds normally drowned out by city sounds. Crows,
woodpecker, dogs barking, Cormorant flapping its wings in the water taking a
bath. What I didn't hear was one car, truck, airplane or boat. The
shore line is rock covered and the island's rolling hills are filled with pine
trees. What a wonderful place. We do not have cell phone coverage
here but hopefully the WiFi I saw on my computer will allow us some internet
access. A short walk around the corner from the dock (1/4 mile) and we
found a little village with a church, central school (wooden), fire department,
bakery/restaurant (closes at 2:00 pm) and a general store. The little
store was wonderful, selling everything from wine, deli foods, ice cream treats
and finally groceries. This evening the church played music for about an
hour. The music of a bell choir sounded through the trees out into the
anchorage.
Not to be fooled though, we did see a winter picture of the harbor. The marinas start shutting down between October 1 to the 15th - it varies per location. That is when the boating season is over and the boats, balls and docks are put up for the winter.
The harbor here is
such a change from the Falmouth Harbor.
A few more boats. Our last day in Falmouth brought another reunion.
An old FAA (retired) friend of Nancy's drove in to see us and gave us a tour of
Portland. Dan took us to West Marine, Boaters World, Hamilton Marine, and
grocery store. Hamilton Marine is the best store that I have ever seen.
They have everything. We found the part that we had been looking for since
Cape May. Dan also took us to lunch a DiMillo's floating restaurant
located in Portland Harbor. The restaurant once was a ferry and had a long
career carrying people and cars. It now is serving another purpose and was
just great. Thanks Dan.
After lunch we walked the waterfront and Nancy found a few goodies before Dan
took us back to the boat. The waterfront is really turning into a tourist
attraction but the stores and shops are completely different than what would be
found at most places. It was fascinating. I did not see one jewelry
store or crystal store.
We will be spending a few days here before turning back and heading to Herrington Harbor. We want to be back in time for the boat show in early October. The weather forecast does not look good for the next 4 days but the next weather break, we will be off.
August 20th, 2007 We are in Falmouth Foreside, Maine. This is just a little place north of Portland standing at the start of the Maine Islands. We are at a family run marina hooked up to a mooring ball. A yacht club is next door that we could have gone to but the service here was the draw. Wonderful, friendly people. The cruising guide was right.
The trip here was filled with new sightings. First, Jim saw 2 whale spouts, not the whales but a mist of water blown into the air. The next was a seal about 10 feet from the boat watching us with his big eyes. We sailed past him before I could get a picture of his bald head bobbing in the waves. We saw several seals after that but none that were real close enough to photograph.
Then we had such a
wonderful surprise. Barbara, wife of Pete (Pete was hired into Nancy's
job), drove up to see us at the marina.
We had not met her before and this was such a treat. She is a great person
- fun - loving and easy to be around. She wanted to take us to dinner so
off we went (Pete was paying but he is in Washington D.C. this week - thanks
Pete). We went to a little place called "Harraseeket Lunch and Lobster
Pound" in South Freeport. We made pigs of ourselves on the freshest
lobster we've ever eaten.
Barbara made us do it. When we got back to the boat the cats were licking
the left over butter off of us. After dinner, Barbara drove us around the
country side and into South Freeport. It is known for its outlet stores.
The funny thing about the town is that the stores are all on the old main street
and in refurbished old buildings and homes. The McDonalds is even in an
old home. This is also the home of L. L. Bean and we saw their many
stores. This little town gets my vote for the cleanest and best kept that
we have ever seen.
We will be staying here another day before continuing up (or out) the Maine coast.
August 19th,
2007 We left
Plymouth and went to Scituate, Mass. (pronounced Sit-u-ate) and why you ask???
See the road sign? And another
. There was also an Otis Lane but we didn't walk there. This is the
hometown of all of my Great Grandfathers back to the 1600's on. They
stayed in this area for a couple of hundred years before some of them found
their way to New York, Chicago and finally South Dakota. Most common first
names were James and John, sooo
I couldn't pass this one up. Wonderful little town with a great Maritime
Museum. The harbor was wonderful and we got a mooring from the local yacht
club.
This was the most impressive of yacht club facilities that we have seen along
the way. They are a family oriented club and vow to have activities for
all ages. The weekend that we were there, they had a fishing tournament,
tennis contest and lessons in their Olympic Size swimming pool - not to mention
sailing and kayaking in club equipment and usual marina socializing at the docks
and moorings. The dining was something else. Did not use the dining
room as it required sport jacket and like a cruise ship, it was scheduled
seating. We had a ball visiting the area.
This morning when we
left I couldn't believe the sunrise.
Red sky in the morning, sailor take warning, Red sky at night, sailors delight.
We left anyway. Had a wonderful motor sail half way to Portsmouth NH, then
the wind was on our nose as we turned at the sea buoy. Still it only took
us 10 hours to get here. We are at Little Harbor, just south of
Portsmouth. The cruising guide said that this was a wonderful place to
anchor. As we pulled into the harbor all we saw was mooring balls and no
place to anchor. A quick radio call to the marina and we were informed
that all the balls where State balls and no rentals for transients. So no
anchor, no balls, no business being here, we were going to plan "B" another area
about 5 miles away that we had as back up (we are learning not to believe in the
cruising guides). As I was turning to head out of the harbor, I noticed an
arm waving, so I turned toward the arm. As we came alongside the arm (
that was in a sailboat ), we were asked how long we would be here and we told
him one night and the arm pointed to a ball in front of the boat. How
lucky. He had heard us on the radio and he went to plan "B". Thanks
to at least one friendly boater in Little Harbor.
Tippy report.
She uses the main sheets (ropes that control the main sail) as her
pillow/security blanket. Most of the time she will snag a claw in one to
rest her head on her arm.
Ok, we are caught sleeping.

On to Maine tomorrow.
August 16th,
2007 We are
anchored along the same beach where the Mayflower anchored in 1620. We are
in closer by about 1 mile. The Mayflower could not come this far because
of its draft. We sailed over their anchor spot which is now part of the
channel coming into Plymouth. If we had anchored there, we would have
plugged the narrow channel. We took the dinghy ashore and toured the area.
We docked right next to the Mayflower II (a 90 foot vessel) which was given to
the U.S. by Britain 50 years ago.
Our dinghy is the little rubber one at the dock halfway between the 2 front
masts of the Mayflower. This ship was built in England and sailed to the
U.S.. The captain's cabin is quit large compared to the rest of the area
that held 102 passengers (plus a crew of 25).
We went to the Rock.
It is placed in a granite columned structure to protect it from souvenir hunters
that wanted a piece of the rock.
Ok, confession time.
Some of you know this and most don't (and probably don't care) but my real name
is James Otis (long story). My family is from Plymouth County,
Massachusetts and I have 2 families of relatives that came over on the
Mayflower. The Warrens and the Mullins. Most will remember Priscilla
saying "Speak for yourself John". Well Priscilla was a Mullins and I am
related to her parents. The other side of the story is that my Great
Grandfather Joseph Otis, 7 times removed, was a Judge in Plymouth County and his
son James Otis was also. We found records of Joseph Otis' court cases and
also we were in the same court room that James Otis tried cases. It is
possible that Joseph Otis was in the court room also but I think he had retired
before this one was built in 1749. The dome from the old house is believed
to have been put on this building. So here is history, James Otis sitting
in the same court room that Judge James Otis heard cases 258 years ago.
Cruising Guide:
Good tidal range here.
Plan on that extra scope. The harbor is mostly marsh so coming in at low
tide is best so the low areas can be seen. The anchorage is at the far end
of the harbor from Plymouth and is a long dinghy ride in. Most of the
anchorage is now covered with mooring balls and only about 2 to 3 boats could
anchor in the area that is left. The alterative is to go to an area
between Plymouth and Duxbury (another mile to mile and a half away). The
anchorage where we are is very narrow and accurate anchoring is needed. I
mean an area not exceeding the length of the boat. Here is a view from out
at anchor.
Notice the boat on its side. The harbor master is not cruiser friendly and
keeps directing boats to the 5 or so mooring out in this area. Nothing in
the main protected harbor. There is a charge for using the balls but I did
not find out what it was. A dinghy dock is available at the Harbor Masters
office. There is a Marina that does offer slips, at least a few and I
don't think they have any mooring balls. Harbor Master is called on
channel 16, (don't believe the cruising guides) and he will direct you to
channel 12. We used the dinghy dock in front of the Mayflower. The
sign says only 15 minutes time but everyone was going there and some dinghies
where permanent and provided transportation to local moored vessels. A water
taxi is available on channel 9. No stores are close by. Only a 7-11,
everything else has moved out to the highway. Boaters World is no longer
available in the harbor, they moved to the highway. The local Marina has a
very small supply of boating needs and even told us to go to Boaters World.
The main street has restaurants, small shops, banks and a sporting goods store.
We had breakfast at a restaurant that advertised the worlds largest breakfast
menu. Can't remember their name but would highly recommend it.
Tomorrow, weather permitting, we shall leave.
August 14th, 2007 I look ashore and see the Mayflower II, given to the United States by Britain next to it the Plymouth Rock. I had 3 ancestors come over on the Mayflower and this is the land that they saw December 21, 1620. These late arrivers made peace with the Indians for 15 years. What I see now is what they saw the next spring. Think of the winter that they went through.
We went through the
Cape Cod Canal and entered a new world. First "Nancy" misread the
current tables and instead of starting through the canal 2 hours after slack we
started 4 hours after slack and guess what??? The current changed on us
half way through the canal and we had a 2.5 knot current against us.
Didn't bother us. I just added more power and made it the last 4 miles at
a record speed of 3 knots. This is a picture of the current against us.
We went into the Cape and noticed that the chart mentioned that this was a Right
Whale Haven and that we could not get within 500 feet of one. I am glad
that I was warned because we never saw a one. The Cape is open to the
North Atlantic and we got the northeast swells from the cold Atlantic. The
water temperature dropped about 10 degrees. We started the day motor
sailing and ended up under full power as we plowed through the North Atlantic
swells. They became broadside and we finally bit the bullet and turned
into them and of course, miles off course. As soon as we could, we turned
back to Plymouth with quartering stern seas (and navigating past the lobster
pots)
.
We approached the Plymouth Light House and the seas calmed.
We are now at anchor and will dinghy into town tomorrow (about 2 miles, I am
glad we have a 15 horsepower motor) and enjoy the sights.
I might sound a little perturbed, but I am. We are at a anchorage (outside the main harbor) that has been filled with mooring balls. Only 2 of us are at anchorage in a small area. Not another one could get in. It seems that the towns no longer want visiting boats. They are making it harder and harder for cruisers to enjoy. We heard that at Newport the city charged $1200.00 for a commercial mooring ball permit and $800.00 for the yacht club. The cities are trying to profit in Federal Waters. I feel sorry for someone trying to cruise a few years from now. Nothing will be available. We called the local yacht club to see if they had moorings and nothing was available, but if it was, it would cost $45.00 per night. Cost more than a Motel 8. We paid $60.00 in Newport and that was only because we were visitors from another yacht club.
We now have 3 cruising guides and they are all different. Phone numbers, frequencies, anchorages, tides, etc. They do give you general information on restaurants and hotels but the rest is user beware.
BOAT U.S. MEMBERS: CALL THE LEGAL DEPARTMENT, LETS GET OUR WATERS BACK.
I love third world countries. They are nice and you don't expect a thing.
More later.
August 13th,
2007 We are
now in Fairhaven/New Bedford, Mass. What an interesting place to come in to.
The harbor is protected by a hurricane barrier and has two doors that close off
the harbor during hurricanes. The doors provide an opening of 150 feet
when not being used. A little look at the Harbor.

New Bedford is known for its whaling fleet and of course the book Moby Dick was
written here. The historical downtown is wonderful and is designated a
National Park.
Park rangers give walking tours of downtown. We went to the Whaling Museum
and spent a good portion of the day there. This is also where Joshua
Slocum built his sail boat "Spray" and was the first solo sailor to travel
around the world.
Today New Bedford has the second largest fishing income with Kodiak, Alaska
number 1. Now known for scallops and flat fish, the fishing fleet fills
the bay.
Anchorage space is rare with mooring balls filling the rest of the area. There is a dinghy dock behind the Holiday Inn Express on the Fairhaven side of the harbor and then a short walk across the bridge to Pope's Island and the West Marine store next to a large hardware store. A water taxi/harbor tour boat recently started in business. Any other shopping (Wal-Mart, Super Value) is a cab ride away. There are some restaurants within walking distance.
We are on a private
mooring ball on the Fairhaven side. As we were coming here and reading the
cruising guides in preparation for arrival, we noticed that of the two cruising
guides that we are using, neither mentioned areas to anchor. A little
problem since we are a boat and like to anchor. So next a call to the two
West Marine stores here. Why you ask?? One cruising guide says that
West Marine has mooring balls. They never heard of any West Marine having
mooring balls. So next call to Pete and Sharon for some local knowledge. Pete called back and
said to contact his brother Chris who lives here. We called Chris who
called his old friend and school mate Scott who talked to his neighbor and got
us the mooring ball. We are located to the east side of the harbor gates
and in front of Scott's home using another neighbors dock for our dinghy.
Scott has his own Yacht Club (MBYC, Morris Backyard Yacht Club). He has taken an old boat house and changed
it into one of the nicest little club houses I have ever seen. Filled with
memorabilia and useful things like satellite TV, wireless computer, stereo
sound indoor and out, refrigerator etc. An upper deck was added and it is
from here that Scott fires the evening cannon. As we pulled up to find our
mooring ball, we were met by Ed in his dinghy who helped us get a line on the
ball. Ed is another old time friend of Chris' and Pete's, and was just going to get his sail
boat ready when he saw us coming in. What great people around here.
Here is a picture of Jim and Chris in front of the Yacht Club. I forgot to
mention that the doors behind us cost about $5000.00. The boat house
probably cost $500.00 new.
Saturday evening the gang all got together at the Yacht Club and had a wonderful
time. They really went out of their way making us feel at home. Just
great. Thanks everyone. This good time is ending soon as Scott has
sold his home to the Marina next door and is moving to Oregon.
Chris gave us a driving tour of the area up the coast to the Cape Cod Canal that we will be going through next. What history in this area. Many old homes built from 1830 to 1850 with some built in the late 1700's, are still occupied and going strong. Chris also has a home on the canal and we are planning another get together once we get to Plymouth.
August 10th, 2007 We are now in Newport R.I.. We have escaped from Block Island.
On Tuesday, we went
ashore to tour the island since the weather was not cooperating. This is
the main street on the other side of the island called "Old Harbor". Ferry
boats deliver people who roll their suitcases down the sidewalk to one of the
quaint hotels.
A lot of other people
stayed also and a few left in bad weather. Two fishing boats collided
outside the harbor entrance and one boat sank. It was crowded at the
anchorage. This is what our radar looked like. Most of the targets
are multiple boats. The clear area on the top part of the picture is a "no
anchor" area.
They sure could open up more anchorage but choose not to.
We left early in the
morning is hopes of finding an anchorage in Newport. There are just a few
areas left in the harbor to anchor, in fact the spots can be counted on one
hand. We had called the Ida Lewis yacht club yesterday and found out that
there were no moorings available but they told us that we could anchor just
outside their mooring field, about 5 spots available, first come first serve. So off we went.
As we were approaching the harbor entrance, Nancy gave one more call to them and
they DID have one mooring available and we could have it. We just didn't
want to anchor with all the storms happening. This is what our XM Nexrad
radar is showing us for this morning.
We are the black triangle in the middle.
The cruising guide
warns of being distracted coming into the harbor at Newport because of the many
varied vessels in this boating capital and this is one of the first that we saw.
We also heard a radio call that a boat was leaving the docks with 400 other sail
boats. We thought that we had heard that wrong only to find out that a
National Competition was taking place with age group about 12 to 14 years of
age. As we approached the yacht club, we called them on the radio and they
sent a launch out to guide us to our mooring ball. After weaving through
the mooring field we found our ball and Nancy got it on the first try. I
say that because of one cruise in Florida on a catamaran, we were so high off
the water, Nancy was laying on her belly with the boat hook in hand trying
to reach the ball. It took several tries before I got the ball exactly
below her so she could reach it with only inches to play with.
After cleaning up, we
called the Ida Lewis launch to come and pick us up to take us into the yacht
club. They were right there and when we asked how much they said "FREE"
with the mooring ball. We tipped the driver and checked into the dock
house to pay our moorage bill. A little surprised at the bill for 2 nights
($120.00). There went our average out of pocket cost of $35.00 per day that we had been
keeping. Ida Lewis Yacht Club is named for the first female light keeper.
The club is in her original house on the rocks where she kept the light burning.
If your Google Ida Lewis, you will find out about her interesting history.
The house is now connected to land by a long pier.
The harbor here is full. It seems that all anchorage area is disappearing
because of mooring balls.
This is the Newport harbor and this is the Newport branch of the New York Yacht
Club which we are moored in front.
Every morning at 8:00 and every evening at sunset the club sounds its cannon
(loudest cannon I have ever heard) to remind captains to strike or display their
flags. Tippy was in the cockpit the first evening the cannon went off and
you should have seen her eyes.
Behind us is Fort Adams, a historical fort where the Newport Jazz Festival starts at 4:00 pm today and we have front row seats from our moorage. What luck.
We walked into town
to get our mail and see the sights. An old town is now restaurants
and boutiques. It seems that all the marine businesses have moved
elsewhere except for a couple of specialized offices. We had a late
lunch/breakfast at a restaurant called the Ocean Breeze. Biggest breakfast
that I ever had and only a short walk from our location. I would recommend
this place to anyone coming into the harbor. As we were walking around, we
looked up and saw the mega yacht "Chevy Toy" docked a few blocks away. Our
friends Bob and Bev have a son who is crewing on the yacht, so we had to
stop by to say hi. After a short visit with him, we returned to Solitaire for a
quick freshen up and then returned to the yacht club for a visit. We
enjoyed a nice wine and used their wireless internet. This picture was
taken in one of the rooms in the light house home of Ida Lewis.

The folks at the Rockaway Yacht Club still get our vote as the nicest folks we have met.
I called the pump out boat and this one is not free. Five dollars for the aft tank and 10 dollars for the forward tank. You can tell which one Nancy uses.
Right now we have a steady rain coming down so it will curtail our in town visit. Time to do a load of laundry. I am sure glad that we don't have to go to a Laundromat. Having a washer/dryer on board makes it nice. Nancy is cooking a home made split pea soup and filling the cabin with great smells and warmth. This is nice.
Tomorrow we should be going to Massachusetts, weather permitting. I just saw a jet stream report and it shows it moving a hundred miles or so north. The storms move along the boundary of the jet. What that all means is that the weather here is going back to clear and warm. Where we are going is to be cool and wet. So goes the day.
August 6th,
2007 Had a wonderful
evening last night. New acquaintances Charles and Liz had dropped their
mooring and anchored close by. Liz rowed Charles over to our boat
with a wonderful bottle of wine. We enjoyed a nice visit before Charles
started the motor and returned Liz to their boat. We had dinner and
later I was enjoying a very nice evening at anchor when I noticed light flashes
in the water. Some were sharp and quick while others were larger and
quick. I attributed that to the depth of the flash. Reminded me of
the anchor in Florida when the harbor turned a florescent blue. This morning we
debated on the crossing to Block Island. The weather report was for
thunderstorms in the afternoon and it would be about a 8 hour trip. I
wanted to wait until the next day but Nancy kept saying "we can make it".
So off we went. We had the current with us the whole way and made the trip
in about 5 hours +. The passage was far from uneventful though. We had
6.5 ft swells abeam and it caused a rock and roll ride. At times I felt
that I should be in a bar in Texas riding the bull. Two others on board
thought that also. Both cats got sea sick. Tippy normally does, but
this was the first time for our 19 year old cat Blazey. The cruising guide
for Block Island says that weekends can be real busy, so we waited until Monday
to get there. The guide also says that the bottom hold for an anchor
is bad and the bay is known for boats dragging anchor. Based on that we
decide to rent a mooring for the night. Well, the best laid plans...
NO MOORINGS available. The cruising guide also mentions that the web site
for the Island now brags that they have anchorage available for 1000 boats.
We made it 1001.
I have never seen such a cluttered harbor. We weaved through the anchorage
and found a spot in 30 feet of sea. This was looking good since the other
available depths were at 50 or more feet. We dropped the anchor and it was
nice knowing that we had 275 feet of chain anchor line available. As I let
out about 150 feet I noticed that we where too close to a no anchor area behind
us. So up with the anchor and move really, really close to the boat in
front of us and drop anchor again. This done and anchor set, the wind
blows before we can even shut off the engine. We decided to let the engine
run and keep an anchor watch going but what we did watch was more boats than we
have ever seen blow past us. Sail boats, trawlers, everyone but us, were
dragging their anchors and drifting away. I just can't say how much we
appreciate our anchor (CQR) and chain. The chain adds the extra weight
needed for the CQR to really dig in. That and we always back down on the
anchor with a lot of power. Tow Boat U.S. recovered one boat and the
harbor master recovered about 10 boats, onboard owners or neighbors did the
rest. Some were left in the no anchor area waiting for the owners to
return and some boats just left for sea as it was safer. One boat was
circling us for an hour trying to find an anchorage and he ended up next to us
in a recently vacated spot.
Block Island.... What can I say. Everyone we talked to that had visited the Island said that we must go. The cruising guide calls it the Bermuda of North America. Warmer winters and cooler summers. The guide also says that the weather on the Island is different than the mainland. They were right. Its rainy, windy and just plain miserable here. I think that we will be leaving tomorrow. The only highlight we had was a boat from a local Italian bakery that visits the vessels at anchor with fresh baked goods. We bought a loaf of egg plant bread ($12.00). Egg plant rolled into the dough and baked. Excellent...
Tippy is in the cockpit now stretched out and sleeping. Life is good.
August 5th,
2007 We left Port
Jefferson and went to Shelter Island on the tip of Long Island. It is a
Island protected by Islands with a wonderful bay. The channel into the bay
is narrow and shallow with a 8 foot depth. We went in with a outgoing
current that slowed our speed a little but not bad. When I say narrow, its
about 2 boats wide. Once inside the bay the depths increased to 10 to 12
feet. There is a designated anchor area to use immediately inside the
channel with a 48 hour restriction. It was not hard finding a nice spot to
drop the anchor in. The anchorage is all tree lined and no trespassing
signs on the shore warning against going above the high water line.
There are no homes along this area, just peace and quiet. We saw a lot of
boats come and go; it seems to be a favorite spot for the locals to come
to and swim. Water temperature is about 74 degrees and we did not see any
jelly fish at the anchorage but did see them in the shallow water at the marina.
We walked into town, about 3 miles and stopped at a grocery store along the way.
There are bikes available for rental but we are getting to like the daily hikes.
We are walking 6 to 8 miles on our sightseeing trips and really enjoy the views
and the exercise. In town we found a hardware store that had filters
for our water maker and when we went to pay, we found out that they do not
accept any kind of credit card. So out came the cash. Next we had
some lunch at a local restaurant and again, no credit cards accepted but
American Express. Strange way to run a business these days.
We were coming up on the weekend and wanted to be at our next anchorage before the crowd arrived so we went across to 3 Mile Harbor, which is better known for the village down the road, East Hampton. The entrance to the bay is a repeat of the last stop, narrow and shallow with a reported depth of 6 feet at low tide. We went in on a incoming tide 1 foot above normal and saw 10 to 12 feet all the way in. This entrance is well marked by private buoys and is long. A sand bar on the bay side keeps the channel close to shore. We had to watch out for the shore fishermen and their casting hooks. Once passed the bar we turned into the anchorage with an average depth of 10 feet. The bay is filled with mooring balls that are not arranged in an organized plan. We got between some of the balls and dropped anchor late in the morning. Later that afternoon we were joined by a yacht club summer cruise fleet of about 8 boats from Rhode Island. Just don't understand it how people think we know where to anchor. There are transient balls available to use, marked to a blue "T" and if someone wants to use them they just pull up to a empty one and hook on. The city has provided a free pump out boat and he was just drifting in the bay when we hailed him and got our free pump out. Wonderful way to keep the waters clean. We tipped him $5.00 not knowing what a proper tip should be and he didn't complain.
The next day we found a free
dinghy dock at the head of the bay and walked into town with a couple from
Connecticut. Charles and Liz were delightful and made the 3 mile walk into
town go by fast. Once we got to town Nancy and I did some window shopping
along with the rich and famous. We didn't see any famous that we knew of,
but we did see the rich. Teenage girls buying $1100.00 to $1200.00 cotton
mini dresses to throw over their swimming suits. This seemed to be the
dress of the day for the girls as they wore them shopping. We had some
lunch, bought two books at the book store and some lettuce, bread and shrimp at
a couple of local stores. This is an interesting place. Nancy did
find that doggy in the window.
We had noticed a windmill on Shelter Island and saw another one here that had
been opened up as a museum.
We will be staying here until tomorrow and then heading to Rhode Island. Until then, "Happy Trails to You".